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Tuesday, August 18, 2020

At the Market: The subtle art of cucumbers - The Daily Camera

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By Boulder County Farmers Markets

What’s in season

Apples, arugula, broccoli, eggplant, corn, collards, corn, carrots, head lettuce, kale, spring onion, cucumbers, kohlrabi, garlic, peaches, mixed greens, melons, peppers, mushrooms, beets, tomatoes, chard, jams, applesauce, cheese, bread, eggs and flowers.

Lots of this, please

Refreshing, crisp cucumbers. We’re not just talking about your typical slicer here. The biodiversity of the cucumber is quite robust.

The farmer says

Josh Olsen, of Acres at Warren Tech, describes his cucumbers in terms of culinary destination. What sandwich, salad, dish or standalone pickle will fit that cuke best? Olsen grows six different varieties with subtle, refreshing differences in look, texture and taste:

Itachi – Yellow- and white-fleshed, this Asian variety is crisp and peppered with only a few small seeds. Best of all, it’s bitter-free. Try it in a stir-fry.

Suyo – Ever heard of cucumbers causing excess gas? We hadn’t until we found out this variety is “burpless.” Yes, that’s right, an adjective used to describe a variety of cucumber that has been cultivated to produce less cucurbitacins, a compound known to make you burp. This guy is good for pickles or fresh slicing.

Lemon – Look quick, and you might just think this cucumber is a small gourd. As you slice into it and taste, you know it’s a cuke. It has a touch of sweetness and tends to be a little seedier. Cut into rounds and top it with a homemade pesto.

Adam Gherkin – Who doesn’t know a sweet-and-sour gherkin or cornichon pickle? Well, these baby pickles are for you. Roughly the size of your pinky finger, this small “cucumber” is bumpy, tart and crunchy. Perfect accompanied by pate, charcuterie or cheese.

7082 – Row 7 Seed Company (Have you ever heard of Dan Barber’s Stone Barn?) derived this breed of cucumber. It’s a company started by chefs who dedicate their lives to grow better-tasting produce for their kitchens. Olsen loves this experimental seed. It’s named for the trial plot — 7082. It looks discrete but packs a complex punch of bright, balanced, bitter flavor. Dan Barber’s grilled pickle with dill is made for this.

Cucamelons – Possibly the most unique of all the cucumbers at market. They look like miniature watermelons the size of grapes. Local chefs go crazy over these delicate garnishes. Expect a sour flavor burst with a hint of lime.

Acres can be found at the Union Station Farmers Market on Saturday, and every other Wednesday at the Boulder Farmers Market.

Goes with

Basil, dill, tomato, feta, mint, yogurt, garlic, onion

How to store

Storing on the countertop at room temperature is recommended, but if you fancy a cool cuke, do the following. Do not wash, make sure the cucumber is dry, and wrap individually in a paper towel. Place in a plastic bag for storage in the refrigerator. The countertop can yield a two-week shelf life, and the refrigerator will store up to a week. If you want long-term, pickling is your best bet. The high water content of cucumber does not lend itself to freezing.

Summer Cantaloupe With a Trio of Cucumbers and Feta

For the vinaigrette

2 teaspoons Dijon mustard

2 teaspoons honey, organic and local

Juice of 1 lemon

4 ounces extra-virgin olive oil

1/2 cup diced pickling or domestic cucumber

Salt and pepper to taste

For the crispy onions

1 red onion

1/2 cup flour

Oil for frying

Salt to taste

For the dish

1 cantaloupe

1 red onion

Dill

Basil

Feta cheese

1 Persian cucumber

1 lemon cucumber

1 pickling or domestic cucumber

1 bunch Chioggia beets

Directions: For the vinaigrette: Whisk ingredients together and season. Set aside until ready to use

For the onions: Shave the onion playing-card thickness on a Japanese mandolin and place in the flour. Separate the rings of the onions so they will fry separately.

Fry in 350-degree oil until a golden color. Season with salt, set aside.

For the dish: Be sure to clean all the veggies first.

Peel the cantaloupe, deseed and slice very thin with a chef’s knife.

Slice lemon cucumber in complete circles, as thinly as possible.

Slice the Persian cucumber thinly.

Shave the Chioggia baby beets very thinly on the mandolin and toss in the dressing to soften a bit; do not toss the cucumbers.

To assemble, arrange cantaloupe on a plate in a spiral. Place a large dollop of the cucumber herb vinaigrette in the center of the cantaloupe. Next, shingle the lemon cucumber and Persian cucumber in the center. Slip in the marinated Chioggia beets in for a pop of color. Place another dollop of dressing on top. Garnish with feta cheese — I like to break it up so it is all around the dish and drizzle on a little extra vinaigrette or EVOO. Serve with crispy onions on the side.

Source: Chef Jennifer Jasinski of Crafted Concepts, craftedconceptsdenver.com.

Markets information

Boulder Farmers Market

13th Street and Canyon Boulevard

8 a.m. to 2 p.m. Saturdays through Nov. 21

4 to 8 p.m. Wednesdays

Lafayette Farmers Market

400 Block of E. Simpson Street

3 to 6 p.m. Thursdays through Sep. 24

preorder curbside pickup only: bcfm.org/curbside-pickup/

Longmont Farmers Market

Boulder County Fairgrounds

8 a.m. to 1 p.m. Saturdays through Nov. 21

preorder curbside pickup also available on Sunday: bcfm.org/curbside-pickup/

Union Station Farmers Market

Denver’s Union Station

9 a.m. to 2 p.m. Saturdays through Oct. 24

preorder curbside pickup also available on Sunday: bcfm.org/curbside-pickup/




August 19, 2020 at 07:37AM
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At the Market: The subtle art of cucumbers - The Daily Camera

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