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As promised, here are some more answers to gardening questions.

How do I know if my tomatoes have blight and what can I do about it?

We all fear blight on our tomatoes — there are different kinds of blight. There is the early blight in the beginning of the season and the late blight which has more to do with where it strikes the plant and at what stage of growth. Neither one of them however comes with warning. Blight strikes fast and can wipe out an entire crop of tomatoes in a short period of time, even within days. Then there's the general term of “blight” which can mean any distressing plant disease, including downy mildew.

The two most important things to consider are space and watering. Space: When planting, allow enough space between each plant to grow so it can reach its mature size. Leave at least three to four feet between each plant. Watering: Always water the soil and not the plant. Wet leaves invite disease and mold. The best time to water is the morning.

Vegetables need constant diligence, so at the first sign of black or brown spotting, cut off the leaf or leaves and discard separately. Do not compost these spotted leaves. Also make sure you sanitize your garden tools with denatured alcohol. You can remove many leaves but ultimately, if only a few are remaining it will not produce fruit. With late blight there is usually no cure. Plants blacken, tips shrivel, and the crop fails, meaning you will have to start all over.   

So my asparagus crop did not produce one single stalk this year — any tips?

Well asparagus is a long-term commitment, and a thriving bed can produce for up to 30 years — yes, I said 30 years. Probably you planted one-year old crowns, which need two years before they can appear en masse.  By next year you should have a thriving crop of asparagus. On the second year, however, you should only harvest for two weeks, but by year three you will be able to harvest for about 6 weeks. 

Have your soil tested; the pH should be between 6.5 and 7.0 to thrive — adjust as needed. Between years one and two it is important to keep the asparagus bed moist but not soaked to prevent the crop from drying out. You can cut the stalks in late fall after they have turned completely brown to avoid over winterizing habitat for insects. Finally, when harvesting work with a clean, sharp knife. Harvest one inch below the soil with a clean cut or snap the stalk at soil level.

How often should I divide my ornamental grasses and what time of year should I divide?

You are in luck. Ornamental grasses are one of the lowest maintenance plants out there. As time goes on the bigger specimens will start to die out from the center and form a ring of growth. The time to divide can start as early as year three (3) and then certainly any time after that.

Ornamental grasses do very well when transplanting anytime but preferably in the cooler temperature of spring or fall, after they have bloomed or produced their seed heads. Usually Ornamental grasses are cut down anytime from December to April as the stalks die and become battered by winter winds.

You might want to do this in the spring because who wants to be outside trimming grasses during a January blizzard?  My choice would be in the spring as soon as you can work the soil. For cutting the bigger grasses it is probably best to use a sharp spade or large knife and cut down between the base shafts of the grasses so that you have a manageable section. Once planted in its new site the transplant should take very easily.

If you have a gardening question, submit it to lafountaine.5@osu.edu. We have more than two dozen eager Master Gardeners who can help with answers.

Sue La Founatine is a Master Gardener with The Ohio State Extension offices in Sandusky and Ottawa counties.

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