Some people look down their noses at the humble potato. When the chips are down, what other vegetable will always be there for you? Others stay rooted where they are, half-baked. Potatoes will leap out of the frying pan and into the fire for you, leaving their tots behind.
Though it is often overlooked, the hard-working potato is the most popular vegetable in the United States. And when prepared properly, they can be the absolute highlight of a meal.
The easiest and most familiar is French fries. It seemed like the American thing to do.
As a food writer, I am required by law to state that homemade fries are better than any you can get at a restaurant. But here’s the thing: It’s true, homemade fries are better than any you can get at a restaurant.
They are better because you can do the same trick restaurants do to make them breathtakingly crisp on the outside and creamy and soft and lovely on the inside.
Simply fry the potatoes for a few minutes at a relatively low temperature, which cooks them all the way through. Then, when you are ready to serve them, cook them again for a shorter time at a higher temperature.
This second frying leaves the exterior nicely browned and crisp, while keeping the inside tender and sweet. It’s French fry perfection.
I wanted to put potatoes to everyday use, too, so I cooked them in one of my favorite ways, Rosemary-Roasted Potatoes. It’s one of my weeknight potato preparations.
What makes this simple method stand out is the roasting. In the dry, hot heat of the oven, the chunks of potato puff out a little. They become ethereally soft in the middle, with a golden-brown crust on the outside.
Actually, that wouldn’t be bad as is, but these potatoes are extra-wonderful because of a few simple ingredients that add so much to the overall dish. With olive oil, chopped rosemary, a few crushed red pepper flakes and the all-important salt, you can make it on Wednesday but it tastes like Sunday.
As much as we love potatoes in this country, they may like them even more in Spain. So I decided to make a Spanish dish, Patatas a la Riojana. This classic dish from the north of the country is a potato stew with a delectable, spicy sauce —but you can make it mild if you prefer.
Several factors go into ma king this stew so hearty and satisfying. First of all, of course, are the potatoes, which are the textbook definition of hearty and satisfying in any language. A substantial amount of paprika is also important, providing the right Spanish piquancy to the mélange of flavors.
If you’re not making a vegetarian version, sausage also comes into play — either a Spanish-style chorizo or a garlicky kielbasa will do. And surprisingly, the starch from the potatoes themselves adds immensely to the texture. It mixes with water that you add to the pot to create a thick and fragrant sauce that coats the potatoes and makes you feel good about life in general.
CRISPY FRENCH FRIES
2 Russet (Idaho) potatoes
Oil for frying
Peel potatoes and cut into long strips ½-inch wide and ½-inch high. Heat oil in a Dutch oven to 320 degrees. Carefully place some of the potatoes in the oil — do this in several batches to assure they are not crowded and that oil temperature does not fall too far below 320 degrees. Cook until just barely beginning to turn brown, about 6 to 8 minutes. Remove with a slotted spoon to a plate lined with paper towels. Repeat with remaining batches.
Raise oil temperature to 375 degrees. In batches, carefully place some of the fries in the oil. Fry until golden brown, about 2 to 3 minutes. Remove with a slotted spoon to a plate lined with paper towels, and salt generously while still hot. Repeat with remaining batches. Serve hot. Yield: 4 to 6 servings.
Per serving (based on 4): 281 calories; 16g fat; 2g saturated fat; no cholesterol; 4g protein; 33g carbohydrate; 1g sugar; 2g fiber; 9mg sodium; 24mg calcium.
ROSEMARY ROASTED POTATOES
1 pound red-skinned potatoes, scrubbed and quartered
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 tablespoon fresh rosemary, chopped
1 tablespoon chopped garlic
½ teaspoon salt, or to taste
Pinch of crushed red pepper
Preheat oven to 450 degrees.
Combine potatoes, olive oil, rosemary, garlic, salt and pepper flakes in a mixing bowl. Toss to coat well.
Spread the potatoes in a single, even layer on a baking sheet. Roast, stirring occasionally, until cooked through and lightly golden, 20 to 35 minutes, depending on the size of the pieces. Serve immediately. Yield: 4 to 6 servings.
Recipe from “White Dog Café Cookbook” by Judy Wicks and Kevin Von Klause
Per serving (based on 4): 147 calories; 7g fat; 1g saturated fat; no cholesterol; 2g protein; 20g carbohydrate; 2g sugar; 3g fiber; 312mg sodium; 28mg calcium.
PATATAS á la RIOJANA (SPICY POTATO STEW)
½ cup chopped onion
¼ cup olive oil
3 pounds potatoes, peeled and thickly sliced
6 ounces Spanish-style paprika-flavored chorizo or garlicky kielbasa, cut into ¼-inch slices
1 green bell pepper, thickly slices, optional
¼ cup flatleaf parsley, coarsely chopped
2 tablespoons sweet paprika
3 dried New Mexico or Anaheim chilies, soaked in water
1/8 teaspoon cayenne pepper
In a deep kettle that will hold all the ingredients, sauté the onion in the oil over medium-high heat until it starts to soften but is not browned, about 10 minutes. Add the potatoes and continue cooking, stirring to mix well. Add the optional sausage, stirring, and when the potatoes are just beginning to brown along their edges, about 10 minutes, add a cup of water. Cook 5 minutes; the potatoes will absorb much of the water.
Add a second cup of water when the first has been pretty well absorbed, together with the green pepper, parsley and sweet paprika.
Remove the chilies from the soaking liquid and discard the seeds and membranes. With a spoon edge, scrape away the inner red pulp. Discard the skins and ad the pulp to the potatoes, stirring to mix well. Cook 8 to 10 minutes, until the potatoes are tender.
Add the hot paprika or cayenne and stir carefully to mix without breaking up the potatoes. Taste and add salt if desired. The potatoes should be fork-tender with just a little rich red sauce to spoon over their tops. Serve immediately.
Yield: 6 to 8 servings.
Slightly adapted from “The New Mediterranean Diet Cookbook” by Nancy Harmon Jenkins.
Per serving (based on 6): 393 calories; 21g fat; 6g saturated fat; 25mg cholesterol; 12g protein; 42g carbohydrate; 5g sugar; 7g fiber; 419mg sodium; 41mg calcium.
March 25, 2021 at 04:48AM
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