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Monday, May 24, 2021

Beyond rabbit food: Surveying the salad scene - Times Union

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When summer begins, many palates begin to crave lighter meals filled with seasonal vegetable and  fruits. You don’t have to stick with basic garden sides and classic Caesar, however. Local chefs are creating colorful, flavor-packed salads. In a region filled with intriguing options that seem to be constantly changing based on what’s fresh and available, restaurants are adding excitement to healthful eating.

365 Broadway, Saratoga Springs; morrisseyslounge.com

Morrissey’s at the Adelphi Hotel, overseen by celebrity chef David Burke, has a brunch menu filled with items like Burke’s signature Clothesline Bacon, which is suspended from a wire, and lobster dumplings with nori, toasted sesame seeds and scallion-ginger sauce. Another winner is Morrissey’s burrata salad. The cheese has a solid outer shell of fresh mozzarella, while the inside is creamy, milky and soft. It’s indulgent, creating a rich sauce for the current version featuring asparagus, heirloom tomatoes and sweet watermelon. The accoutrements change. When I dined at Morrissey’s, the burrata was served on a bed of peppery arugula with crunchy carrot slivers and crisp, tart pomegranate seeds.

Dove + Deer

32 Dove St., Albany; doveanddeer.com 

In Dove + Deer’s salad with raw fennel and kohlrabi, the greens have a thick, cabbage-like texture, with licorice notes from the fresh fennel and a hint of black pepper from the kohlrabi. Starting from that uncommon base, the chef spices up the salad with radishes, pink grapefruit and lemon-Dijon vinaigrette, and finishes the dish with ricotta salata, adding a salty flavor and a silky, creamy texture. 

Prospect

13 Scribner Hollow Road, Hunter; scribnersprospect.com

Prospect's delicious, healthful options including blistered shishitos — also known as Russian roulette peppers, because some are extremely spicy while others have no heat at all —  served with sea salt and a squeeze of lime. Among Prospect’s rotating specials are light selections like crudo, or the slightly bitter radicchio salad with labne (strained yogurt), apricot and pistachio. Currently, the main salad option is Little Gem lettuce with a crisp, mild flavor, topped by sunflower seeds for texture and a creamy artichoke vinaigrette. 

Lost & Found Bar & Kitchen

942 Broadway, Albany; lostandfoundalbany.com 

Lost & Found Bar & Kitchen knows how to create an interesting combination. Its goat-cheese salad is served on a bed of greens that have been tossed in a tangy vinaigrette with lime and black pepper. Once the greens are lightly coated in the dressing, the salad is topped with sweet candied nuts, a variety of fresh berries and tangy fried goat cheese. Previously, the salad contrasted the fried goat cheese with pickled pears, demonstrating that the kitchen likes to experiment with ingredients to pair with the cheese. 




May 25, 2021 at 04:33AM
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Beyond rabbit food: Surveying the salad scene - Times Union

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