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Wednesday, May 19, 2021

Food Fare: A little imagination can make a dull salad delightful - Times-Mail

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A 2016 article in the Atlantic stated that “salad,” as a word, as an image, as a category of food, is a shorthand for “healthy eating,” but also a shorthand for “joyless healthy eating.” It evokes diets and weight-consciousness in a way that no other entire category of food does. Sandwiches don’t seem like a chore to eat; soup doesn’t get dismissed as “rabbit food.”

But salads have come a long way since the Romans dipped their greens in brine and dressed them with olive oil. Despite the fact that they are still associated with healthful eating, they have also developed a reputation for flavor and enjoyment. These days “salad restaurants” are doing a brisk business.

Wikipedia defines a salad as “a dish consisting of mixed pieces of food, sometimes with at least one raw ingredient. It is often dressed, and is typically served at room temperature or chilled, though some can be served warm.” It further categorizes salads into green or garden, wedge, fruit, rice and pasta, bound (held together by a binder such as mayonnaise), dinner or dessert.

Salads can be served as any course in a meal from appetizer to dessert and there are literally thousands of recipes from well known — Caesar, Waldorf or Salad Nicoise — to a simple mixed green offering with a light vinaigrette, Given that there isn’t room for thousands of recipes to be printed along with this column, I’ve decided to concentrate on a classic dinner salad that might be served as a main course and throw in a couple of salad recipes that can accompany an entree as a side.

I’ll start with the classic dinner salad, usually composed of greens, other vegetables, a protein and various toppings. Making such a salad is like putting together a jigsaw puzzle: You choose the overall design from hundreds of options and then figure out how to put the pieces together in a way that creates a finished piece that pleases you.

First, equipment: You’ll need a wide, shallow bowl that is ideal for mixing a salad quickly and evenly without tossing the ingredients all over the kitchen, and salad spoons that gently lift and tumble the ingredients without crushing them (though some say your fingers work even better). You’ll also need a bowl or colander that will allow you wash your ingredients thoroughly; a salad spinner is nice but not a must-have.

You’ll need to shop: Spring and summer are the perfect time to look for seasonal vegetables and fruits for your creations, but winter produce can also be used in a variety of ways to make interesting salads. Pick ingredients that are crisp and fresh and use them quickly, while they are at their peak. Try for a variety of textures, flavors and colors — soft greens are sweet but will wilt quickly, all-purpose greens have crisp leaves and a mild flavor, sturdy greens have thick, dark green leaves and are full of flavor and antioxidants, and peppery greens are pungent and juicy. Look for other vegetables and fruits that will compliment the greens you’ve chosen — as one blogger put it, a dull salad “is a missed opportunity.”

Next, trim and wash your vegetables. To get your greens really clean, fill a bowl with water, add the greens and swish them around. The grit and nasty bits will sink to the bottom and be left behind as you gently lift the greens out with your hands; dry them in a salad spinner, colander or roll them in a towel.

Start with sturdier greens, then add one or two elements each from fruits and vegetables, proteins and starches. Tear your greens into bite-sized pieces and chop, slice or shred your other ingredients for a variety of shapes and textures. Select options that play well together; you’ll want enough variety to keep your palate interested but not so much that your bowl becomes crowded and confused. You can always create a different salad tomorrow.

Then choose a dressing that compliments your choices and binds them together. Always start with less dressing than you think you’ll need. Homemade dressings are easy to make, store well in the refrigerator and allow you to control ingredients and calories. If you choose a prepared dressing, take a look at the label and remember that “low fat” dressings often replace fats with sugar and salt, which may not make it a healthier option.

You can choose to dress the salad as a whole or serve it “tossed but undressed” allowing each diner to chose their own from a variety of offerings.

Finally, consider toppings to add flavor and texture. “Rich” toppings might include cheese, nuts or thinly sliced avocado. For “crunchy” options consider croutons, toasted nuts or seeds, crispy fried onions or shallots, popcorn or tortilla strips. One of the columnists I read said she’d never really liked salads until she started topping them with Fritos. To boost “flavor,” add pomegranate seeds, fresh or dried berries or spice mixes like togarashi or sumac. And finally for an “intense” experience, think olives, pickles, anchovies or capers.

With all these options you could eat a dinner salad every day for a month and never have the same dining experience. But perhaps you’d like a break and want to serve a different entree — then you might need a salad as an appetizer or side. So I’ve included a couple of my favorite side salads that are quick and easy to make and stay on the lighter side.

The first is a simple green bean, tomato and red onion salad. Snap some green beans into bite-sized pieces, cook until just tender, mix in some halved cherry tomatoes and diced red onion and toss them with an easy dressing of oil, vinegar and some spices. This is a great salad to make a day ahead as the flavors intensify with time.

The second is a “bound” salad of red potatoes, but it uses a Greek yogurt dressing to keep it on the lighter side. The recipe calls for chopped dill and mint but you can experiment with other flavors. I used bee balm from my garden instead of purchasing mint — its tangy flavor, slightly reminiscent of oregano, mixed nicely with the dill. As with the green bean salad, letting it sit for a day in the refrigerator allowed the potatoes to absorb all the flavors while having cooked them to barely fork tender kept them from getting mushy.

It’s time to close, though we’ve barely covered the tip of the iceberg (pun intended). Spring’s a great time for you to tinker and experiment on your own — and perhaps your “salad days” won’t just be confined to a “time of youthful inexperience.”

Green Bean, Tomato and Onion Salad

Green beans, about 3 cups

Cherry tomatoes, halved, about 2 cups

1/2 a medium red onion, about 1/2 cup diced

For the dressing:

1/4 cup olive oil

1/4 cup red wine vinegar

Balsamic vinegar to taste

1 teaspoon stone ground or Dijon mustard

Salt and pepper to taste

1/2 teaspoon Italian seasoning

1/2 teaspoon dried oregano

1. Remove the ends of the beans and snap them into 1 to 1/2 inch pieces. Rinse thoroughly. Cook the beans until just barely tender either by blanching or steaming.

2. While the beans are cooking, halve the tomatoes and chop the onion into small dice.

3. When the beans are ready, drain and rinse under cold water to stop the cooking process. They should be tender but still crisp.

4. Combine the vegetables in a bowl big enough to mix them without spilling

5. Combine the olive oil and red wine vinegar and mix well. Add enough balsamic vinegar to get to your desired acidity and sweetness. Add the mustard and blend in well

6. Season with salt and pepper to taste, then add in the herbs and mix well.

7. Pour the dressing over the vegetables and stir gently to coat.

8. Refrigerate until chilled, mixing once or twice to completely coat the vegetables.

Recipe note: This salad is actually better when served the next day, allowing all the flavors to meld.

Greek Yogurt Potato Salad

Source: Emma Laperruque, Food 52, May 20, 2019.

2 pounds red potatoes (5-6 ounces each)

6 tablespoons kosher salt, plus more to taste

1 cup full-fat Greek yogurt

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1/2 cup chopped dill, plus its finely chopped stems

1/2 cup chopped mint

1/2 cup pitted, torn (or roughly chopped) oil-cured olives

1. Bring a large pot of water (about 6 quarts) to a boil. When it starts to simmer, season it with 6 tablespoons kosher salt (estimate 1 tablespoon kosher salt per quart water).

2. While that’s heating up, cut the potatoes into eighths — or whatever fraction will give you roughly equally sized potato pieces. Add the potato pieces to the boiling water, then adjust the heat to a simmer. (Simmering, not boiling, the potatoes means they’re less likely to fall apart.) Cook until the potatoes are just knife-tender (they’ll continue to cook a bit out of the water), starting to check frequently after 10 minutes. When they’re done, drain the potatoes into a colander, rinse with cold water to cool, then let them drain until dry.

3. While the potatoes are cooking, combine the yogurt and olive oil in a large bowl. Stir to combine. Add the herbs and olives on top (no need to stir yet).

4. When the potatoes are cool, add them to the bowl with the yogurt. Stir as gently as possible, taking care to not mash the potatoes. Taste and adjust the seasoning as needed.

5. You can serve right away or stick it in the fridge for later.




May 19, 2021 at 11:00AM
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Food Fare: A little imagination can make a dull salad delightful - Times-Mail

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