Every Thursday, I shop at the farmers market at the San Rafael Civic Center. Over the years, I’ve learned what fruits and vegetables to expect each month.
I’m often asked, do I shop the market then make a plan or plan and then shop? The answer is both. I plan our menu based on what I’ve seen previous weeks but if, when shopping, something isn’t available or I find produce that I wasn’t expecting and prefer, then I pivot.
Photo by Carolyn Jensen
Potatoes and leeks are in season now.For example, a few weeks ago when I saw daikon and carrots, I automatically thought of banh mi sandwiches, which my family loves, so I decided to replace this for a dinner I had previously planned.
On my kitchen counter, I have a binder of seasonal go-to recipes. These are the recipes I make a few times a month based on what is in season. It is easy to make — all you need is a three-ring binder, a few dividers and sheet protectors. Label the dividers by season: winter, spring, summer and fall. When you find a recipe that you and your family like, print it out and file it under the season to which it belongs.
This may sound outdated but I like to have a printed recipe for convenience and to make notes on the pages with family preferences and changes I’ve made to the recipe based on our tastes.
At the market right now are new potatoes, leeks and arugula. When I saw them, I immediately knew I had to grab the binder to make one of our favorite soups: roasted potato leek soup. Unlike vichyssoise, which is blended and served cold, this version is a more homestyle and hearty, and served warm — definitely a dish that is welcome at this time of year.
Carolyn Jensen is a culinary explorer who is devoted to shopping farmers’ markets for locally sourced, extraordinary and seasonal foods. She shares her weekly bounty through photos, tips and recipes on Instagram. Contact her at jensencarolyn@comcast.net
RECIPES
Roasted potato and leek soup
6 to 8 servings
2 pounds new potatoes (such as Yukon gold, butterball or bintje), peeled and cut into 3/4-inch chunks
4 cups chopped leeks, white and light green parts, cleaned of all sand, about four leeks
¼ cup good olive oil
(Photo by Carolyn Jensen
Potatoes and leeks are roasted on a sheet pan in a single layer before adding arugula.Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper
3 cups baby arugula, lightly packed
½ cup dry white wine, plus extra for serving
6 to 7 cups chicken stock (use vegetable for a vegetarian version)
¾ cup heavy cream
8 ounces crème fraiche
¼ cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese, plus extra for garnish
Crispy shallots, optional (recipe follows)
Preheat the oven to 400 degrees.
Combine the potatoes and leeks on a sheet pan in a single layer. Add the olive oil, 1 teaspoon salt and ½ teaspoon pepper and toss to coat the vegetables evenly. Roast for 40 to 45 minutes, turning them with a spatula a few times during the cooking, until very tender.
Add the arugula and toss to combine. Roast for four to five minutes, until the arugula is wilted. Remove the pan from the oven and place over two burners. Stir in the wine and 1 cup of chicken or vegetable stock and cook over low heat, scraping up any crispy roasted bits sticking to the pan.
In batches, transfer the roasted vegetables to a food processor fitted with the steel blade (alternatively, you can do this in a blender), adding the pan liquid and about 5 cups of chicken or vegetable stock to make a puree. Pour the puree into a large pot or Dutch oven. Continue to puree the vegetables in batches until they’re all done and combined in the large pot.
Add enough of the remaining 1 to 2 cups stock to make a thick soup. Add the cream, crème fraiche, 2 teaspoons salt and 1 teaspoon pepper, and check the seasonings.
When ready to serve, reheat the soup gently and whisk in 2 tablespoons white wine and ¼ cup Parmesan cheese. Serve hot with an extra grating of Parmesan and crispy shallots, if using.
Crispy shallots
Yield: about ½ cup
1½ cups olive oil or vegetable oil
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
5 to 6 shallots, peeled and sliced into thin rings
Heat the oil and butter in a saucepan over medium-low heat until it reaches 200 degrees on a candy thermometer. Reduce the heat to low, add the shallots, and cook for 30 to 40 minutes, until they are a rich golden brown. The temperature should stay below 260 degrees.
Stir the shallots occasionally to make sure they brown evenly. Remove them from the oil with a slotted spoon, drain well and spread out to cool on paper towels.
Once they have dried and crisped, they can be stored at room temperature, covered, for several days.
— Adapted from “Back to Basics” by Ina Garten (Clarkson Potter 2008)
December 16, 2020 at 03:04AM
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A homestyle, hearty roasted potato and leek soup to warm you up - Marin Independent Journal
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