This article appeared in the December 2020 issue of St. Louis Magazine.
Gastronomes anticipate white truffle season in the same way that kids look forward to Halloween. In Alba, Italy, truffle hunters begin the search in late October for the prized white truffle. Despite the cost ($1,750–$2,250 per pound), white truffles are one of the glories of fall for The Crossing’s Jim Fiala. This season, he re-creates a “peasant” dish that he learned from a classically trained French sous-chef at the restaurant Daniel in New York City. Having seasoned a Yukon Gold potato with sea salt and a few drops of olive oil, he bakes it on a layer of kosher salt. The cooked potato is halved, a channel is cut into one half, and the remainder is fork-smashed with butter, salt, pepper, parsley, bits of truffle, and a whisper of nutmeg. The rough mash gets heaped into the remaining shell. White truffles (between $8–$12 per gram) are shaved on top, and the sharable is whisked out of the kitchen. Fiala recommends 4 grams of truffle per potato and insists the $40-plus appetizer is worth the indulgence. “You need to order enough to perfume the entire dish,” he cautions. “If you scrimp, you’ll regret it and say, ‘what was the point of that’”?
Editor's Note: The dining room at The Crossing is temporarily closed due to the in-person dining ban in St. Louis County, but the restaurant is still seating parties at the three reservable tables in the rear that seat four to six.
December 16, 2020 at 03:19AM
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Indulge thyself in a truffled potato from The Crossing - St. Louis Magazine
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